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  The pride of the Catalans

The pride of the Catalans

| SURUCHI KAPUR GOMES
Published : May 28, 2016, 10:20 pm IST
Updated : May 28, 2016, 10:20 pm IST

That Catalunya in Spain considers itself a country on its own is evident in its people and their pride at being Catalans.

Barcelona Cathedral
 Barcelona Cathedral

That Catalunya in Spain considers itself a country on its own is evident in its people and their pride at being Catalans. Their quaint balconies stand testimony to this, sporting the ubiquitous yellow and red Catalan flags made even more apparent by guides who never fail to reiterate the uniqueness of this country. While the discussions continue over many a delicious tapa, we explored this city that has risen time and again from a history filled with wrong choices when it comes to picking sides!

Landing in Barcelona through the Aero Bus in the Catalunya Square was the first sight of this glorious city, buzzing with tourism, excitement and openness. The BnB Misca Scarda was a 45-minute walk from the square and it was wonderful, overlooking cobbled streets, a church tower in the distance and a nice Chinese breakfast café where you could have some sandwiches and drink vino like it was water.

To the right of Placa Catalunya is the walk down Barcelona’s famed La Rambla, which is teeming with people, though I personally thought it was overrated. To the right is the fashion quarter with small cafes and street hawkers dotting the path. Stop at La Boqueria on La Rambla for a truly exquisite food sojourn filled with fried kalamari and tapas of all colours, shapes and sizes.

As for your poison for the evening — if it’s bad wine, do it the Spanish way — drink it with Coca Cola and call it Kalimucho, (a useful tip, courtesy, a fellow Spaniard Lorena Sanchez). Stock on some olives and chorizo with cheese and you can continue on this walk that leads you to the main square — the quaint Playa Barceloneta that was designed with a beach for the Olympics and to the Estatua de Colon. From here, you can visit Castell de Montjuic, and take the cable car to the top, which on a sunny day will give you the best view, lapped by its azure waters. The castle itself is pretty much a ruin, but the views, bicycle and walking trails are replete with an old world charm and are breathtaking.

We visited Park Guell — Gaudi’s home, located on a hillock called Carmel Hill, which overlooked the city. We took a bus to the closest point to see the home of this artistic genius, who used to watch the progress of the Sagrada Familia in the distance from this quaint perch — a colonial home with beautiful orange tree-laden gardens, flowers, walkways, a wondrous park where Gaudí incorporated many motifs of Catalan nationalism, religious mysticism and ancient poetry. Walk about and enter the mind of Gaudi at his bright, bold and brazen best.

The Sagrada Familia is something that you have to visit. This 1882 building is still a work in progress, and its bold stature and statues take you aback with their detailing. Once inside, the delicate hues from innumerable stained glass niches give an almost halloed view of the tall columns, large reliefs and beautiful churches Take a walk into the crypt, see the exhibition of how the church was built from scratch and revel in Gaudi’s brilliance at work. The Basilica arose from the inspiration of a bookseller, Josep Maria Bocabella. Its Gothic architecture is magnificent, even as the Spanish continue to complete it.

We took a Sandman’s free-walking tour across the old quarter of Barcelona, with our very ‘propah’ Brit guide Ruby Wragg, and it was wonderful. Walking through the old quarter to the oldest synagogue in the world sporting the flag with a star, which signifies their want for independence.

Quick pointer — get to know Barcelona before you go all touristy with a selfie-stick. As you trudge those cobbled streets, gaze at churches, towers, silent statues and monuments, this impressionist painter’s delight fills you with awe.

As a die-hard football fan, the trip went from awe to sensational with the visit to the Nou Camp for a match between Barcelona FC and Gijon, which Messi and his men took 6-0. It was stupendous, after of course, the sky opened and poured its wrath just as thousands walked in sporting their Barcelona allegiance. But just before kick-off, it was bright and sunny again as if relenting to Barcelon-ites’ fervent prayer for some Messi magic. The maestro didn’t disappoint. He went on to score and so did Suarez. The Nou Camp stood tall, expansive and regal as it welcomed thousands into its lap and then went on to let the game do the talking. There is a tour of the stadium and its museum too, which you can book online.

The Barceloneta and the Gloria market are a must-do. There was the brilliant Passieg de Gracia, which houses the La Batillo and this hub of beautiful gourmet delight housed in the old Marketplace called El Nacional. It’s a place to hangout in perfect company, food and wine.

Then there were the happy Spanish people and their immense hospitality — oops! Catalan people I mean — wonderful, helpful and always ready with a flurry of names for where to try the best tapas and drinks. An oft-repeated advice was to ask for a menu del dia for the best rates.

Barcelona the beautiful had us completely bowled over and we will visit again, this city of many experiences, blue as the sky above.

Muchos besos!