Bharmour: Of myths and mountains

On a summer weekend getaway, if you find yourself in a crowded alley in McLeod-Ganj or in the gorgeous yet busy town of Dalhousie, longing for more tranquillity, you could take a small detour and drive away on the scenic roads of Himachal towards Chamba. The destination you are looking for is Bharmour, a small town shrouded in myths of mountain gods and hidden away among craggy hills and snowy peaks. It is a 112 km drive from Dalhousie and about 60 km from the town of Chamba. The road to Bharmour is dramatically rugged and runs alongside the meandering river Ravi. It is dotted with the view of quaint houses precariously perching on hilltops and shepherds making their way up the mountains with their woolly companions.

The Town The view that greets you in Bharmour is equally, if not more, glorious in its own understated way. The town is rustic to its core and removed from the maddening crowd. Snow can be spotted along the mountainous skyline even during summer. The hillslopes are lined with apple orchards and sheep grazing peacefully among the trees. The market has small shops selling grocery and fried eggs among other things. Most of the buildings look like they have been built and left unfinished in a hurry although a few shops still maintain the traditional and very charming wooden architecture.

The Myth The myth surrounding Bharmour is embodied in its two landmarks, the Chaurasi Temple and the Brahmani Mata hill temple.

Legend has it that Shiva and his company of 84 siddhas angered Brahmani Mata, the presiding deity of Bharmour, by trespassing on her land. In order to appease her, Shiva granted her a boon that all pilgrims embarking on a pilgrimage to Manimahesh can complete their spiritual endeavour only if they take a dip in the pool of Brahmani Mata. The 84 siddhas assumed the form of lingas and settled down in Bharmour for eternity. The Chaurasi temple, located at the centre of the town, is surrounded by a complex of 84 shrines. Some of the shrines date back to the seventh century. The Brahmani Mata temple is located 4 km uphill from the town.

The Mountains The way to Brahmani temple takes you up the hill through deodar forests and into a rolling meadow. Here you can find horses, mules and cows grazing on the sprawling grassland and resting among wild flowers. We even found a horse rolling on the grass like a happy dog. The ridge offers a breathtaking and panoramic view of the mountains and the sleepy town in valley below.

Bharmour is certainly off the beaten path and does not offer the luxuries of popular hill stations. The town can meet only your bare necessities and has a certain raw appeal to it. However in Bharmour, you can find plenty of serenity and beauty, and a rare memory for your travel diary.

The writer is a travel, photography and humour enthusiast