God’s great dance floor

The Monsoon is here and so are the Kanwariyas, complete with bass-heavy disco-trucks and an unmistakable air of bliss. As the city turns into a festival ground, are Delhi-ites willing to play along?

Six men on two motorcycles grooving to the beats emanating from an adjacent truck fashioned into a sort-of discotheque — complete with multi-coloured LED lights and a stack of speakers powerful enough to produce a mini-earthquake. Such was the vibe on the streets of Delhi until just a few nights ago, when the coming of Sawan ka mahina (the month of Sawan; meant to symbolise the arrival of monsoon), also marked the commencement of the iconic yearly pilgrimage among followers of Shiva known as Kanwariyas — Kanwar Yatra.    

Photos for representational purposes only

Every year, millions participate in this journey that sees devotees carry a kanwar (or a pole with a pot tied on each end) to fetch water from the holy Ganga. They head to places such as Haridwar, Gaumukh, Gangotri and Sultanganj. Often decked in orange and accompanied with much pomp and gusto, them passing through a city like Delhi almost seems like a metaphor for the energy and feeling of festivity that the rains bring.

It was quite the spectacle for Delhi-ites this time around too. Sudama, a taxi driver from Jharkhand presently residing in Delhi, saw off his brother who — along with a group of 30 other boys, two motorcycles and a truck — made his way to Haridwar, where many Kanwariyas living in North India  usually head. Such a large group usually splits the duty, which is where the trucks and bikes come in.

However, the celebratory nature of their journey — Sudama even references that chillums (pipes to smoke marijuana) and bhang are often consumed by the Kanwariyas — has led to this disco-truck phenomenon, much like the fanfare surrounding Ganpati Visarjan in Maharashtra.

For South Delhi resident, Jaideep Misra, “As an Indian, it always feel comfortable having guests over, especially those with spiritual pursuits. It makes you feel that spirituality is not dead.”

While understanding that entertainment and festivities are welcome in a city, he continues, “no population has a monopoly over depravity.” “In other words, everyone has a right to seek enjoyment, but not to harass.”

There have been reports of harassment by Kanwariyas as recently as last year. A Muslim man was beaten for participating in the Yatra, while another case saw the pilgrims topple a vehicle.

Ajay Yadav

Jyotika Bhaskar, another Delhi resident, expresses a similar sentiment. She says, “I have nothing against the Kanwariyas. It is a religious tradition that has existed for many centuries now. But the roads are not equipped for any pedestrian, be it Kanwariyas or otherwise; there is barely any place to walk.” Indeed, pedestrian space will help tackle the traffic situation, which isn’t helped by the rain.