In defence of the Kurta

Hillary Clinton’s 2016 presidential campaign was marked by, among other things, her pointed fashion choices. Most notably, she flaunted her power game in a range of pantsuits and occasionally, made critical comments on the country's challenges in sharply structured skirts. It was a meticulous affair with every colour designated a purpose, every strand of hair held in place to convey a distinct message to her constituents. But recently, Hillary seems to have let loose. Ditching her carefully manicured look, the former First Lady threw on a loose kurta at the recent Ozzyfest in NYC. Unsurprisingly, she was trolled for her fashion choices and her pale blue kurta with a white block print was dubbed everything from a colostomy bag to a hospital gown to a nighty. That the piece of garment, considered the most convenient and fashionable in the subcontinent being trolled have raised the hackles of those in the industry with some believing that there's a lack of awareness  about Indian clothes.  Designer Anupama Dayal believes that wearing kurta signals a great deal of confidence and comfort. “Kurtas bring a dignified look and an evolved woman will make these choices. That she is wearing this today doesn't mean that she won't go back to her sartorial dressing sense tomorrow,” she adds.

In her 1989 book Understanding Fashion, cultural historian Elizabeth Rouse explained that clothing is not a random or totally individual affair. It's infact a social activity. “The overall pattern of our dress is a consequence of the society in which we live and we cannot interpret the clothing of other societies or understand their significance if we have not learned the code,” she writes. This is perhaps why Hillary was applauded for embracing Indian fashion when she made an ethnic appearance in a Payal Khandwal outfit during a Mumbai conclave; sadly her attire wasn't appreciated during the Central Park event. “Though there is nothing wrong with what she was wearing, people are used to seeing her in informal, well-tailored suits and had a different view to what she should have worn,” says fashion stylist Tanya Sharma who also feels that the fit could have been a little-off-the-mark more than the dress itself. "If it doesn't fit right, no matter what you wear, it won't look good. The trolls will always have a point of view but here, the issue is the fit of the garment,” says fashion designer Nachiket Bharve who believes that people in the west are aware of the kurta. “In today's day and age, there's a lot of cross-fertilization of cultures where the names may differ but the construct remains the same. So whether it is a Moroccan kaftan, an Indian kurta or a tunic with a scarf, there are cultural cross-references,” he adds.