The naked truth

The recently released 43rd edition of the Pirelli calendar makes a cultural shift as it features women from different spheres of life known for their achievements, not body types

Until even last year, an amazon facing her back to the camera would’ve hardly made it to Pirelli’s calendar, as we have known it. Known for featuring partially clad, perfectly chiselled models, the calendar has for the first time in its 43rd edition this year, featured women with different body types from diverse fields. Photographs, especially of Serena Williams and Amy Schumer, got all the attention mainly because they have earlier been critiqued for their physical appearances. Unlike previous models who’ve adorned the calendar, these women didn’t seduce the camera, but rather channelled their personalities to make strong portraits. The turn in the focus to non-provocative poses is noted as one step closer in embracing one’s body type.

Renowned photographer Annie Leibovitz, who was behind the lens for the 2016 calendar was given a free rein to cast famous faces on the iconic canvas. The photographer said in a press conference, “Pirelli came to me and told me they wanted to shift this year to something different. I made the suggestion that they do women performance artists or women comedians, almost a take-off. I just thought of women I admired and I didn’t let anyone in the studio. It became a very strong set of very simple portraits. No one was supposed to look like they tried in these pictures. I still can’t believe the women who agreed to do it, did it.”

Talking about going “no glam”, and how the calendar has become a talking point, ace photographer Atul Kasbekar says, “As Williams and Schumer’s semi-naked 2016 calendar photos indicate, women have the freedom to bare it all as Pirelli calendar girls, if that’s what they’re comfortable with and if that’s what’s called for artistically. The bigger message seems to be to celebrate strong women. Shoots like these act as a medium to break-free from stereotypes and become a conversation point. India is yet to see such a drastic change but there are little steps taken here and there.”

“For example, the editorial shoot I did with actress Huma Qureshi where she hid her body behind a perfect sized mannequin, the message of the shoot was to embrace yourself and highlight your achievements. And, I think many Indian actresses and celebrities are acting as role models to spread this message strongly across to the young generation.”

Fashion photographer Vikram Bawa agrees that India has a long way to go before warming up to the idea of women without chiselled bodies making it to iconic calendar portraits. “If in India we were to bring out an artistic calendar (like Pirelli) it’d be for a very niche market. What works for Pirelli might not work in India; we need to have that brand name, the kind of photographers and the vision of these photographers and celebrities. How many of us would like to see a social worker or an ambassador for a cause on a calendar cover in India The audience is important too. I’ve toyed with the idea, but for us budget is a major constraint. I would like to capture Naseeruddin Shah or Amitabh Bachchan, who are actors par excellence (in candid poses) since they have a perspective and get things done on their own terms.”

Things aren’t too glum though. The thought of embracing body types need not necessarily be new to India, points out Atul. He adds, “None of the Indian models are anorexic; they are all healthy and like to be fit. Today, we are concentrating more on health and achievements than just external beauty. That is definitely some progress.”

The progress need not translate into practical on-field projects however. As Dabboo Ratnani points out, what ‘sells’ here still is glamour and gold-dusted dreams and also, not very risqué portraits. “In India we don’t do these kinds of nudes and calendars because here we do not have that kind of skin show. We work keeping the Indian traditions in mind. When we have too much skin show, or the photographs are overtly ‘in your face’ people shy away from displaying them at their homes and offices. I have been doing an annual calendar since 17 years now. I have worked with people from all walks of life, but my calendar work involves photographing friends from B-wood — it has worked for me for very long and I don’t want to change it.”

Question is, would the shoot have become the talking point that it has become, if the names attached weren’t as big Photographer Rohit Chawla opines that it got so much recognition because of the brand and the photographer. “It wouldn’t have been a talking point had it been shot by someone in Delhi. India is yet to open up to the idea of embracing their body type. Though there are many celebrities who believe in staying healthy than achieving size ‘zero’, still the industry has not broken the set stereotypes. If you say they are embracing their bodies then why do celebs still ask for a particular photographer or a certain type of Photoshop done to their images ” That’s a question for another day.