Glory and pomp back in Kashmiri weddings

Mr Faisal Hussein (name changed) left for his future in-law’s home at around 11 pm and returned with his charming new bride at about 2.30 am.

There were no police checkpoints along the 20-km densely populated route and the journey to and back from the wedding was smooth and hassle-free.

At the wedding, the groom and the 100-odd baratis were served wazwan, the rich Kashmiri wedding cuisine, fresh and dry fruits and other choice delicacies.

This would not have been possible in Kashmir even a few years ago. When the insurgency was at its height in the Valley, most weddings were downsized at the expense of the region’s traditionally large and lavish ceremonies, which typically involve folk singing, dancing and the rich wazwan.

Gun-battles, bombings, protests and the frequent curfews and other security restrictions would force hosts to reduce the number of guests and wrap things up early, in contrast to traditional ceremonies that could go on for days. The occasions were sometimes disrupted by the death of a relative or friend in fighting; there were even a number of instances when a groom or bride fell prey to violence hours before the marriage.

In fact, all rituals would be completed during the day. But with the security situation improving, the old ways are returning to Kashmiri weddings. The guest lists are growing once more and the ceremonies are being restored to their former glory.

In April and May, the Valley witnessed hundreds of traditional weddings. The peak marriage season is, however, still some time away as the ongoing month of Ramadan has halted the nuptials. With enormous change in the ground situation, wedding ceremonies in the Valley are once again stretching for days.

Several customs hitherto alien to Kashmir have been introduced too. Lower middle-class families and other weaker sections of society are organising extravagant weddings even if it means getting into debt.

Mr Farooq Bhandari, a well-know chef or waza of Srinagar, is fully booked till October for cooking wazwan, the cuisine that is the trademark of Kashmiri hospitality. “The pursuit will begin immediately after Eid. Half a dozen other wazas and about 15 to 20 helpers will be joining me to cook wazwan at these weddings,” he said.

Mr Ali Muhammad Mir, a Srinagar kothidar or sheep exporter, said that 1,200 to 1,500 weddings are scheduled to take place after Eid and approximately 600,000 kg of high quality mutton would be needed for these weddings.

As per official statistics, mutton worth Rs 400 million is supplied to Kashmir from Delhi and other livestock markets in the country during the marriage season. Not surprising, as seven to 21 mutton-based dishes are cooked at these weddings. The J&K government in 2005 had revived a 1973 “guest control order”. The number of guests at receptions at the bride’s house had been fixed at 75, including 25 baratis. But the diktat was never enforced and died a natural death. All that, thankfully, is in the past now.