Bedazzling brocade

Brocade, an embossed woven-silk material shot through with metallic threads, has been worn to convey social status for centuries in places such as Byzantium, China, Italy and India. As the old expression goes, “Money talks,” well, so do clothes and fabrics. They tell stories about our personalities, our income and our dreams. Considered to be one of the finest fabrics, brocade is making a rich comeback on international runways in everything from craftily made spaghetti tops, brocade print on boldly-coloured furs at Mary Katronzou, prints used as burnt velvet on sheer silk at Simone Rocha and jackets and patchwork pieces at Burberry Prorsum.

“This is what we call ‘old-school gone new’, thanks to designers, both Indian and international,” says designer Anupama Dayal about the fabric’s revival and comeback. “Brocade — heavy, textured and dramatic — might spark thoughts of antique sofas or curtains in a drafty country house rather than of an elegant wardrobe. But these days the tactile, ornate material is as beloved of fashion designers as interior decorators. It is one of the ultimate dandy fabrics. There’s a richness and luxury about it. It’s got a very sensual appeal because it’s almost 3D in the way it’s woven. It’s all about decoration,” she adds.

Brocades are not restricted to Fall any more as well, says creative director of Divani, Sanya Dhir. She asserts, “In fact, it is praised for its bi-seasonal potential. These days they can be found in many styles under various price brackets. Print-heavy pieces are one of the easiest to incorporate in your summer wardrobe. You may also think it’s strictly for the evening but brocade dresses down quite nicely as well.”

About brocade’s India connect, designer Ritika Arya Jain shares, “In India, Banaras is considered to be the hub for brocading, or silk weaving. But it didn’t begin in Banaras until the 17th century. Before that, Banaras was renowned as a cotton weaving centre. Brocade weavers and patterns had arrived from Persia (modern-day Iran) via Gujarat and weavers kept arriving from Surat and Ahmedabad and settling in Banaras, displaced by natural calamities and the demise of royal workshops.”

Admittedly, with its eye-catching patterns and often heavier feel, brocade isn’t the most forgiving fabric to wear. Designer Dimple Raghani cautions, “You have to be careful if you are a healthy size, because it’s not the most slimming of fabrics. You also have to have confidence to wear brocade.” She adds, “Brocade can also be teamed with georgette and chiffon, fabrics that allow it to seamlessly adapt to not just structured garments but also fluid and flattering styles. The ideal way to use it is in the form of embroidery, given its richness.”

As with many potent looks, the key to pulling it off is about moderation. “Limit it to one piece,” suggest designer duo Diya Aroraa and Rajvvir Aroraa of the label DiyaRajvvir. “Stick to one patterned item, and make it the centerpiece of your look. Watch out for too much volume as it can make you look like an overstuffed armchair. Instead, go for clean, structured lines in modern shapes such as a pencil skirt or blazer. No tufting or gathers. A flippy skirt would look fab paired with a cosy cropped jacket and a moto jacket paired with skinnies in a warm hue is another great option,” they conclude.