The traditional chikan embroidery of Lucknow is now being threatened by its machine made version from China.
The traditional chikan embroidery of Lucknow is now being threatened by its machine made version from China.
Chinese chikan work that is flooding the market is about 30 per cent cheaper that the original handmade embroidery and also consumes less production time. This is posing a direct threat to over five lakh workers in Lucknow who are involved in “chikankari”.
A sector-specific analysis of the chikankari craft conducted by the Associated Chambers of Commerce and Industry of Industry of India (ASSOCHAM) has found that machine made chikan work is thriving because it comes much cheaper that the original work.
“Chinese chikan work is thriving in the export sector because it can be produced much faster and timely delivery of the product is more important when it comes to cross-border trade,” the study said.
D.S. Rawat, secretary-general of Assocham, said that chikan industry is highly fragmented and has been facing significant challenges owing to insufficient market information on export trends, opportunities and prices, scarcity of raw materials, lack of adequate finance and growing competition from mill and factory made products.
He said that less than even 5 per cent of the chikan manufacturers in the city are into direct exports. Slow response from the supply side could be a limiting factor for exports of chikankari craft, considering the fact that demand pattern in international markets revolves around quality goods. Mr Rawat said that there is an urgent need to create awareness about chikankari and its products through promotional methods like building brand image, conducting road shows and craft festivals in target countries and also point of sale publicity through attractive display and banners. Innovative packaging is also needed for the products.
Assocham has also suggested government facilitation for creation of niche markets for chikan products, opening showrooms and warehouses in select countries according to their current market size and import values.
Mr Rawat underlined the need for developing a mechanism to enable rural and semi-urban artisans to encourage them to become entrepreneurs and take advantage of emerging market opportunities.
“The government, in partnership with private sector, needs to encourage integrated enterprise development by providing supporting services such as local centres for skill training, product adaptation, vocational training and entrepreneurship development,” he added.
