The FDCI is breaking with tradition this year by not only doing away with the grand finale, but also opting for a stark black and white décor at the Amazon India Fashion Week AW’18. And interestingly, the opening shows on Wednesday were a play of shades of darkness and hues of pristine whites.  

Day one saw Samant Chauhan going beyond his longstanding love for whites and exploring the shadowy depths of the underworld in his collection ‘It’s a Glitch’. An ode to darkness, the collection was in a greyscale palette.

“The collection is a departure from what really defines us,” said Chauhan, post his show. From fabric to embroidery, everything was a departure from his usual style. A heavy use of net fabric and glass embroidery marked the outfits, but what really stood out were the embroidered jackets. The grey cotton, silk-layered, off-shoulder gown paired with a floral embroidered black crop jacket won the loudest round of applause.

“I wasn’t born colour-blind but every time someone asked me why I always chose white as the canvas for my collections, I’d say I was colour-blind. For long, I resisted black. But the darkness around me helped me focus hard and grasp the silhouettes, the contours. Darkness helped me understand shadows. They say if we are without shadows, we aren’t living beings.”

Creation designer Anupama Dayal

An interesting element in the show was the entry of seven dwarfs, followed by an eighth one — donning royal outfit of black and beige shirts and coats with geometrical prints, symbolising past royalty.  

The next show of the evening was a beautiful bouquet of whites. And interestingly, this collection was by designer Anupama Dayal who has always been known for her play of vibrant colours. “I wanted to try something different and it was a bold move to switch from lilac and pink to white. The inspiration for my collection ‘Fida-e-Lucknow’ came from a visit to Lucknow. Rather than just playing with chikankari, I have used the various other elements that define the place — from large prints of kite to swords, which were used in light colours to subdue the violent streak,” shared Anupama, dressed in a white sari and a blouse with asymmetrical collar and funky tassels, paired with kite and sword earrings.

The outfits featured various cuts that accentuate the Indian body, making the dresses perfect for one’s resort collection. “Indians are comfortable with the cuts as we are used to wearing saris. I have tried playing with them around the waist and arms, along with attaching tassels with kites, thus, highlighting the essence of the city of Nawab,” said Anupama.