Daman delights

From quaint churches, seafood delicacies, and walks on the beach, this is one serene getaway

Before we set out on an almost impromptu bike trip to neighbouring Union Territory Daman, I wrote to a blogger who lives there asking about places to explore.

Though he was very helpful with the compact information he gave, he didn’t seem very forthcoming with the idea of more tourists coming in and patronising the “ramshackle bars” or exploring the “dirty beaches”. A bit shaken at the disdainful description, we decided to give it a shot anyway. What’s the worse we’d find, we thought.

So, we started early on Independence Day, swishing through empty highways, potholed roads, some lined by innumerable housing projects and others by more pleasant sceneries of farms, wild grass and full grown trees. The shades of green positively affect your mood, a refreshing change you could get used to. As the sun and rain could not decide which of them were on nature’s duty that day, both made sure we made unplanned stops put on and take off our windcheaters. And of course, to relax the sore derrieres during the four-hour Bullet ride. Stay options are plenty, and after much back and forth we decided to rent a room near Devka Beach in Nani Daman. One look at the beach and you can see the why the local blogger’s annoyance is justified. Black sand, muddy water, boozards leaving behind empty liquor bottle and snack packets - not a pretty sight at all.

What is quaintly pretty is the Bom Jesus church in Moti Daman. The high ceiling, intricately carved wood pillars and altar brushed in gold gives it an old world charm, speaking volumes of the love for opulence of its builders. Started in 1559 and consecrated in 1603, the exterior could well mislead visitors to think the church is abandoned, thanks to the monsoon and moss soaking its walls. The pale yellow Our Lady of Fatima chapel in the vicinity is another attraction worth checking out.

Walking around in Moti Daman is akin to being caught in a pleasant time warp, narrow arterial streets lined with lamps, important administrative bungalows, a lighthouse, trees, makeshift warehouses like the ones seen in horror Hollywood films and a rusty, towering cross. All these monuments are within the fortified walls built during the Portuguese, quite the grand entrance.

Towards the fag end of the road is the jetty, a typical fishing village scene. Colourful boats, fisher folk untangling nets, flags fluttering, serenity in entirety.

One could easily mistake an evening at Jampore Beach as one in Baga/Calangute in Goa thanks to the shacks selling cheap booze. The better way to spend time there is getting drunk on nature, watching the sun paint the sky in hues of red before it disappears into the horizon. Silhouettes of kids playing in the black sand are could be any photographer’s dusky dream.

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In Nani Daman, though connected, St Jerome Fort and the Stella Maris are opposites as the former is weathered and strong, while the latter stands tall and freshly painted. Stella Maris actually houses the administrative office of a school next door.

Daman surprised us, it can be a fun place if you decide to go teetotaler in the wish to drink up the many subtly delightful moments it has to offer. The peaceful walks and typically local fish delicacies will be more than enough to make great memories in Daman.