A volcanic meal for the French soul

My fascination with Europe began when I read up about it during my teen years and the fondness only kept growing stronger. Despite having globe-trotted over the years, I never really experienced a place, only saw it.

But, last year, I finally decided to venture out on a six-month long backpacking adventure. Like most people, I had a planned itinerary to explore many of the mainstream and touristy places. Thankfully, the plans went kaput on reaching my first stop, Paris.

After exploring few touristy spots, I reached my first unplanned surprise, Dijon, as recommended by a fellow unknown traveller who I bumped into at a bar in Berlin. Dijon is a quaint town in the Burgundy region of France, known for its wine, and of course, the world famous mustard that is named after it. Clearly, it was one of the most beautiful towns which I explored on foot. The town transported me to 15th century with Gothic and Renaissance architecture, and I could imagine myself in Houppelandes gowns having wine in one of the best vineyards, Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin or satiating my appetite with mouthwatering Escargots a la Bourgogne or praying at Notre Dame de Dijon. I stayed for three days, which passed in a blink.

Saint Emilion wine country

My host was kind enough to take me out for an evening and was soon giving me tips on how to be a local. The third day started with tasting French wine and cheese along with a group of Americans and French on Gevrey-Chambertin vineyards. Time just flew by while we chatted like long-lost friends and enjoyed some of the most interesting wines.

While I was planning to head to Nice, my host suggested Clermont-Ferrand, the hidden gem in the Auvergne region, surrounded by a 40 km long chain of 80 volcanoes. The last eruption was 8,000 years ago and scientists have claimed the possibility of another one at any time now. So, obviously, that became my next stop. And, what an adventure I had there while having breakfast on the volcano!

All it took was a four-hour ride to reach one of the oldest cities of France — Clermont-Ferrand. As I discovered the city, I felt I have found the eighth wonder of the world, the Clermont-Ferrand Cathedral sitting at the center of the city as a striking black Gothic beauty, built out of the volcanic rock.

Amidst all this, I even chanced upon amazing beer at Place de la Victoire, a lively square lined with bars. In the evening I visited Le Rimbaud where I got acquainted with a local couple, who were celebrating their anniversary and generously invited me to join.

The next morning, I started for Puy-de-Dome, one of the youngest volcanoes in the area. A bus from the city took me to the base camp. While trekking to the top to see the crater, I met a motley crew of Germans, American, and French folks who kept cracking jokes. While all of us had researched the place, none was prepared for what we saw when we reached the top. It was breathtakingly beautiful. While it was green and there was no lava (since it’s not active), the feeling of being on the volcano was so surreal. Once we all overcame that, we sat and had our own picnic. We all were carrying something edible — hot-dogs, bread-butter, chocolates, cheese, which we combined with wine.  

Ainara

Sitting there, reflecting on my journey so far and mesmerised by the beauty of the volcano, filled me with gratitude. A feeling we often take for granted. It made me realise that if I had followed my itinerary, I would have missed out on such a surreal experience. Maybe life is not just about planning; it is as much about letting it happen. Sitting there, I felt free to do anything and be anything. It is there that I decided to start on my own, not knowing that a year down the line this seed would get converted into full blown marketing agency.

On my last day in the city, I went to Jardin Lecoq, the a picturesque garden filled with swans and at times attacking the susceptible picnickers for their entertainment.

Being a wine connoisseur, my trekking friend had informed me that there is a place where you can swim in wine (only figuratively).

And so, my next stop became Saint Emilion, a world heritage site that offers a mix of history, amazing food and fabulous wine. We were not allowed to photograph the underground church, so I captured its beauty laced in rich history in my heart.

— The writer is a marketing entrepreneur who runs Canvilicious