:: Travel

Romantic idyll

Lakshmi Govindrajan

Postcards capture the sheer essence of a locale, yet no destination lends itself better to a postcard than the gorgeous and quaint little Positano. Tucked in Italy’s glorious Amalfi coast, Positano is exactly what you would have seen at some point in time or the other representing rustic Italy on celluloid — streetside cafes, steep steps, pristine blue sea, white houses, the works.

Positano’s more famous neighbour Sorrento is often the preferred tourist destination, but that’s exactly what makes the former more attractive. Devoid of as much attention, Positano revels in its lazy pace, its vertical limit and its countless staircases. It’s often called the Vertical City due to its altitude with houses lining one side of its long-winding roads, and almost all of them offering a superb view of the Tyrrhenian Sea’s azure hues. In fact it’s as romantic a town for honeymooners as it is for photographers, artists, novelists or anyone with an eye for creativity, nature and beauty. In fact the Rolling Stones’ Mick Jagger is said to have written Midnight Rambler while holidaying there.

My husband and I drove down from Naples, needless to say it was visually the most breathtaking experience of our holiday. The two-hour drive with Mount Vesuvius in the backdrop and later a sensual coastline also did not prepare us for the surprise package Positano turned out to be. We stayed at the Villa Gabrisa which was formerly a private villa. It was built in the traditional architectural style of Positano — grand terraces covered by bougainvillea and grapevines, French doors, graceful archways and ceramic tiled floors.

If you’re hyperactive you may find the town a bit slow, but for those tired of city life, it’s the ideal holiday spot. It offers you both the beach and the altitude of the hill-station, so you can simply take your pick. It’s easy to look around the town and much of the sightseeing can be finished in a day. If you start from its highest point and move down towards the beach, make sure you have a meal by the sea. One of Positano’s most famous sites is the cathedral of St. Maria Assunta. It is characterised by the imposing majolica dome and is visible from almost every panoramic point of the town. It houses the icon of the Black Madonna, painted in the XIII century. In fact legend goes that the icon had been stolen from Byzantium by pirates and was being transported across the Mediterranean. Just then a storm in the waters opposite Positano, startled the sailors who reacting to a voice onboard saying "Posa, posa" ("Put it down!") offloaded the icon and took it to the nearby fishing village. As the storm subsided, the town got its name Positano.

Other interesting sites include the various beaches, a cave that still holds prehistoric remains and the Ponte dei Libri bridge, which crosses a beautiful valley. If you’re done visiting famous sites, make sure you sit at a cafe and watch the town go by while you sip some wine and munch on fruits. True to their Mediterranean nature, the fruits here are not just juicy but also available in the brightest of shades. If you think rustic is rural, then you’re in for a shock. You will not find it surprising to spot many a Maserati and Ferrari drive past as Positano is quite the rich man’s holiday home. This trend is seen in its exorbitant prices while shopping for clothes or accessories. Overall, a superb holiday destination which offers unmatched serenity, fantastic cuisine and picturesque scenery.