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Colours of Kolhapur

Arati Bhargava

From the aircraft window Kolhapur in south Maharashtra appeared a tiny city set amidst a lush green hilly terrain with fairytale ponds and lakes making it a picturesque fantasy. Its low-roofed small airport handling only one flight a day was reminiscent of the refreshing 60s when airports were not like railway platforms nor a maze of counters handling endless traffic.

The near 13 km drive from the airport to the city was as beautiful as it had seemed from the air. The meandering greens and distant hillocks on either side of the road, the clean crisp air of the surrounding Sahyadri ranges lend it the perfect picture postcard look. No wonder that Kolhapur that is on the banks of the river Panchganga has been one of the favourite areas for Bollywood producers.

I drive to a Heritage Hotel, the old palace of Kolhapur’s princely Shahu Maharaj family called the Shalini Palace. A majestic black stone and marble structure in the midst of rolling landscaped grounds overlooking the Rankala lake, the palace which was built in the 19th century has an old clock tower with a clock that works perfectly.

As one drives around the outskirts of the city and watches the serene waters of the lake or strolls along the green countryside dotted with shrubs and bushes, the air has a magical quality. It is no wonder that the producers of the highly popular Jai Shri Krishna programme on television chose to shoot the serial in Kolhapur’s Jaya Prabaha studio.

The city itself is a mixture of the modern and historic. While the bazaars are bustling rows of modern shops there are also several majestic period structures. Most taxis charge irrational fares — Rs 400 for just 10 km. So I settle for an autorickshaw to the city’s most famous place, the ancient Mahalaxmi temple. Flower sellers sit along the outer wall of the temple complex selling flowers of all types from the large pink, white and mauve lotus and huge marigolds to dewy crimson roses. Inside the gate ahead is a relatively simple main temple structure. I buy flowers and step inside the temple. The dimly lit interior with its damp yet cool environ is a relief from the warm sunny courtyard outside. The Goddess Mahalaxmi idol about three-and-a-half feet high and weighing 40 kg is said to be swayambhu. This means that it has not been carved by anyone but is a primeval monolith of uncut diamonds and precious stones. While the inner temple is sombre, simple and serene there are sculpted structures outside that house the temples of other deities. It is said that the Chalukya ruler Karandev started this temple in the 7th century AD and later in the 9th century AD it was beautified by the Shilahara Yadavas. The temple is a Shakti peeth and it is said that a wish made here comes true. Needless to say I promptly made a wish.

Shopping in Kolhapur is simple as there is virtually a different street for every item. The streets selling two of the city’s most famous items are a few minutes walk from the temple. The nearest being the Saraf bazaar or silver and gold jewellery market called Gujri. The traditional Kolhapuri ssaz, a beautifully crafted gold necklace is a must for local women and visitors. What is greatly popular is what is known as one gram gold jewellery, this means that the ornament is made of silver with a one gram plating of gold.

Much too tempting to linger in Gujri, I move on to the nearby Shivaji Chappal market lane where scores of shops sell a bewildering variety of the internationally famed Kolhapuri chappals. As I try out a pair the chappal seller Suryakant Namdev Doiphode tells me that his family has been in the trade for generations. The city is also famous for its red chillies called lavangi mirchi and its jaggery.

There are many historic buildings I visit. There is the old 18th century palace with its intricate filigree work and marquis on stone. It has the Bhavani temple and pujas are done there even today. The grand 19th century town hall that has a museum housing various antiques. Kolhapur’s princely family’s new palace that appears quite like their Shalini Palace set in acres of land with its own lake and a zoo is a delight. While the family resides in a section of the palace the ground floor is a museum open to the public but with a ticketed entrance. Inside the Durbar hall has been kept as it must have been by the ancestors of the present family head. There are life-size marble sculptures, priceless paintings (I spotted seven Raja Ravi Verma originals), life-size paintings of members of the royal family and a host of valuable period items.

Four days in a small city would appear more than ample. But despite its size it seems that my stay was much too short for this city seeped in history and quiet grandeur.

The writer is a travel expert