Travel

Bonjour Provence

Asian — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 03:21:15 GMT

By Christine Pemberton

We arrived in Aix-en-Provence completely by default. The original plan had been to spend the weekend in Grenoble, but when we got off the high-speed TGV train from Paris, it was pouring, absolutely bucketing down. The weather forecast for the rest of the weekend was just as gloomy.

Quoi faire? What to do? Easy. Head south to Provence and the Midi, in search of the famed warmth and sunshine of the south of France.

We sloshed our way to the car rental offices, hired a car, and then just headed south. As we drove steadily south down the highway, the rain gradually stopped, the clouds lifted, and by the time we arrived on the outskirts of Aix-en-Provence, the weather looked perfect.

And so, as I said, by default we ended up weekend-ing in one of the most charming towns in the south of France. Aix-en-Provence was the birthplace of two giants of the French 19th century art scene — Emile Zola, the novelist, and Paul Cézanne. Cézanne, the father of the Impressionist movement, regularly painted the countryside around this pretty, historic town, immortalising the local mountain, the Montaigne Sainte Victoire, which is a leitmotif in so many of his works.

The weather was wonderful, there was a lazy settling-into-the-weekend ambience about the town, and so we drifted and ambled with the Friday evening crowds along the famed Cours Mirabeau, lined with elegant 18th century homes, and tall shade-giving plane trees.

The centre of the town is dominated by a large square, with a huge fountain, the obligatory swirling traffic, and, tucked away in a corner, a statue of Cézanne. Shops, cafés and restaurants line the square, and everyone sits outside a café, lingering over drinks, watching the world go by.

We explored the narrow, paved little streets behind the stately boulevards, and found a fabulous, open-air Japanese fusion-style restaurant for dinner, where people kept wandering in forever. It certainly isn’t happening in this elegant city, as people flowed in after an early evening movie.

The next morning, we headed for the weekly open-air market, which was a prime candidate for sensory overload. Stalls offering fabulous looking fruits, vegetables and cheeses jostled for space next to stalls selling lavender, and saffron (yes, in France) and locally woven baskets.

We bought saffron, didn’t buy the locally made soap, Savon de Marseilles; bought delicious cherries, didn’t buy lavender plants, knowing they would never survive the journey and the heat of a Delhi summer. And, naturally, we bought calissons, small and sweet almond-shaped pastries that are an Aix speciality.

We never made it to rainy Grenoble. Another time.

The writer is a travel expert

Spellbound by snowy Switzerland and beauteous Bali

Asian — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 03:20:31 GMT

Juhi Chawla

I have always loved holidays as I find them very liberating and at the same time a learning experience. Travelling helps you grow, see the world that you can only imagine through movies and books. It’s a great opportunity to learn different cultures, languages; meet people who are so different from you in some ways but so similar in many other ways. Luckily I have been in a profession where I get to travel a lot. I love Switzerland, it’s stunning. You go to any place in Switzerland and it’s picture perfect. Most people speak English, which makes travelling easier. And the weather is just great. I like the cold and the snow, but summers are beautiful as well. They are a good time to visit for you if you can’t really deal with extreme winter and are going to be locked up in the hotel room because it’s too cold. It defeats the whole purpose of travelling.

I prefer to leave the guide books at home when I am travelling, although I read about a place before I get there. But when I am travelling I like to explore the new place on my own, stumbling upon places I wouldn’t see otherwise. Losing your way in a new place can be a bit intimidating at first, but it’s fun finding your way.

When you have a family and kids, the idea of travelling changes a bit as family vacations are the order of the day. Seeing a place you have been to with your kids’ eyes and their unique perspective is refreshing and at times amusing. Of late I have been enjoying trips to Bali. All those who think Bali is all about beaches will be in for a major surprise as there are the hills, some volcanic hillsides which are brilliant to look at, and the lush green interiors, which are worth visiting too. There are many resorts by the beach available at reasonable prices, even if you are looking for a bit of luxury you don’t necessarily need the five-stars. The Aaman Vanna resort is my favourite here, it is well located and the staff is extremely friendly and helpful. People in general here are warm and friendly. There are also small budget guesthouses catering to tourists who spend a few months or so here and you might find cheaper accommodation there.

The island of Bali is divided into many sections, and the South end is highly popular with tourists and is very busy. But if you want something quieter you can go to the North where the beaches are quiet. I like the popular Kuta beach in South Bali for its energy and vibe. There is the famous Garuda Vishnu temple, the statue of Lord Vishnu riding Garuda is spectacular.

Every evening in the central part of town there are cultural showings like the well-known lion dance. Go for one of these performances after the sun goes down.

There are some nice restaurants serving authentic Indonesian cuisine in the open market area and if you go there early you can get a table in the central square from where you can enjoy these performances and order your meal at the same time. The food is absolutely delicious and ridiculously cheap. So if you are health-conscious, watch your calories but have a blast.

As told to Ajay Surya

Dazzling food scene of Barcelona

Asian — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 03:20:01 GMT

Ritu Dalmia

Barcelona, the treasure house of courtesy, the refuge of strangers.

— Don Quixote

Some years ago whilst travelling to Burma, I met two ladies from Barcelona. I was playing carom and they were fascinated by it since they had never seen a carom board before. Soon drinks were being bought and then phone numbers and emails were exchanged. That was the beginning of a great friendship and also of course a reason for me to finally visit Barcelona.

Barcelona is one of the very few cities in the world which you can truly call hip. Too bad I discovered it so late. But better late than never.

Our friend Lali used to be the Deputy Mayor of Barcelona and is currently teaching Greek mythology, and she took upon herself to figure out all that we were meant to do, which literally meant that culture was going to be a part of this holiday and not just restaurants and bars.

Right after our breakfast of Café con Leche, the traditional breakfast beverage which is 50 per cent coffee and 50 per cent milk, she took us on a city tour. Instructions were plain and simple — "wear comfortable shoes". I should have known we were going to be on our feet the whole day.

She had us exploring the wonders of Gaudi by giving us a complete architectural tour. I saw Sagrada Familia, a giant temple, probably Gaudi’s greatest works and is the most visited place in Barcelona. My feet were already aching but we had just begun.

Picasso Musuem was next on the list along with an interesting commentary on Pablo Picasso’s formative years.

Another interesting thing that she pointed out to me about Barcelona, as we walked through all the back lanes, was the number of small boutique hotels in the city. Fans of designer hotels are going to have a very tough time here. Depending on your design predilections, you might want to be based in the eclectic Casa Camper, translating the design ethos of the Camper brothers (better known for their funky shoe brand "campers") or the ultra sleek Hotel Omm. I know where I am staying next time.

Lali was not 100 per cent heartless and some nice restaurants had been chosen for our visit. Lunch to begin with was at Agua, one of Barcelona’s best beach side restaurants. Not only did it have one of the best stunning views across the sea, I loved its superb yet simple Mediterranean menu.

Dinner was at El Tragaluz. It seems Lali was all set out to show the dazzling food scene of Barcelona and not just the cultural bits. It seems that the tables at this restaurant are highly sought after and she made the reservations two weeks before. Of course a slight hint was also given that a little effort should be made to dress smartly. A three-storey building with a glass ceiling and beautiful terrace. But what took my breath away was the modern avant garde style of cooking using the freshest market produce.

I guess eating, drinking and shopping can be very time consuming. But I think I am all ready to go back for another walk with my friend Lali through the narrow streets of Barcelona.

The writer is a chef and owner of Diva

Romancing the sun, sand & sea in Goa

Asian — Sun, 01 Nov 2009 03:40:18 GMT

Ishaa Koppikar

I am a complete water baby. I am the happiest when I am near the sea. I find the expanse of the ocean both fascinating and intriguing. The treasures it holds within itself, the sound of the waves hitting the shore are all so amazing. One day I’d like to have a house that opens up to the sea and I can wake up in the morning and just walk down to the beach barefeet. My favourite holiday spot has always been Goa. It’s a place I went to when I was much younger, with my family, cousins, and it was our idea of a perfect holiday. And it has remained the same since then.

If you are a beach lover, Goa is definitely the place to go to. It has all the elements that make some of the well-known beaches in the world a tourist haven. Although I am somebody who likes going to Goa during the season, which is around November to March, going to Goa during monsoon has its own advantages. The place is stunningly pleasant when it rains, the lush greens are enchanting and since the place is quiet, you can have your peace. Having said that, I like the buzz when tourists from all over the world come to Goa and it wears a very global village look.

I hear people saying that it’s too crowded and losing its charm, but I don’t think so at all. There are still some quiet beaches in the South for those who want that kind of serenity. And then there is Panjim, the capital, which is like any other old town in the world — quaint and charming. I like walking through the narrow lanes of Panjim, looking at the old villas and churches when I want a day away from the beach. But that doesn’t happen often as I am most often on the beaches, soaking in the sun.

I spend most of my day on the beach and read a book, go for a swim, come back and read some more, and the day continues. You somehow never seem to get bored of that even if it might sound like another routine. And each trip I have made to Goa, I like to go and sit in a different shack, and go to that same one each day during the trip. So I have made friends with the guys who work at this shack. They are really friendly and warm people. People here in general are very warm, chilled out and fun loving, which adds to the attraction of the place.

I am a complete foodie and prawn curry rice is my absolute favourite. I can have it at a shack or go to a fancy restaurant and gorge on it. And who doesn’t love the ambience and scrumptious sea food at Britto’s, a perennial favourite. After hanging out all day on the beach, it’s fun to dress up and go out for dinners in the evening and if your heart fancies, go out clubbing to some of the best nightclubs in the country.

Goa has music running through its system, so be it at clubs where they play amazing music, to restaurants where musicians play live, you can tap your feet and shake your head to the beats. I always buy music that you somehow get only in local stores or flea markets here. And whenever there is a live concert, mostly for trance or lounge music, you will find the who’s who of Mumbai attending.

Shopping is fun in Goa, from flea markets to local talented designers; you get what you want here. It’s a place you will never have enough of no matter how many times you have been there.

As told to Ajay Surya

Lively Liverpool

Asian — Sun, 01 Nov 2009 03:38:38 GMT

By Rupali Dean

Definitely the most diverse city in the world and I feel the best kept secret in the UK at the moment, though it sure has its ticket to ride after the city became the European capital of culture for 2008.

The Beatles Story museum is located just outside the main entrance to the Albert Dock and as I walked through I thought it was simply amazing and a very nice comprehensive summary of the legendary careers of the Fab Four. Witness the full-size replicas of the legendary Cavern club and also the Casbah room built in the basement of a parent’s house.

As I progressed through the exhibition there was all the information and memorabilia any Beatles fan could ever dream of. Then I hopped on to the magical mystery tour bus, which visits the boyhood homes of the Fab Four. The bus passes by their schools, the parish hall where John and Paul first met, the gateway to Strawberry field and Penny lane itself. The tour came to an end at Matthew Street.

I am not quite a late night person, but Liverpool changed me. It has a nightlife to suit everyone, for those who prefer a quieter time there are a multitude of bars and cosy restaurants. Concert square and Mathew Street are lively and bustling with many bars to choose from, or you could spend the night trying lots of them.

Of course, there is always the legendary Cavern Club if you are looking for memorable nightlife in Liverpool, the UK’s city of culture. It was first open in 1957. The front stage of the club is set under the famous arches that have provided the iconic images of the Beatles in the early 1960’s. This doesn’t mean that the club is old fashioned, it is really classy.

I hadn’t had enough of Albert Dock so I visited the Merseyside Maritime museum, also home to the International slavery museum. With this free exploring I gained an appreciation of the importance of Liverpool as a sea-faring city. The Titanic and her sister ships were fitted out here prior to sailing out to their eventual doom, and it was the major city in England for voyages to the New World for close to 200 years. It has only been since the 1960’s that Southampton has eclipsed Liverpool as a sea-faring city, but the magnificent history of the city and the superb refurbishment of Albert Dock, along with the massive construction boom coming from being the capital of European culture mean Liverpool is striding confidently into the future.

Football is like a religion in Liverpool, make no mistake about it, and should you be stuck for words or conversation in this city, then just ask them which team they support. As a matter of fact, in the Springwood cemetery there are thousands of graves with several tombstones that have the Liverpool football club emblem engraved onto them. For me it has been a fantastic experience visiting Liverpool, and as the Fab Four once sang, come and experience Liverpool where, basically all of you should be here now.

The writer is a travel expert

Mystic, mesmerising Mahabaleshwar

Asian — Sun, 01 Nov 2009 03:24:51 GMT

Damodar Joshi

Mahabaleshwar is a beautiful hill station situated in the Western Ghats. It is at an altitude of 1,353m above the sea level, hence very cold during summer. This was the capital of Bombay Province during British rule. Mahabaleshwar is easily approachable from Mumbai, it is at a distance of 285 km from Mumbai.

Mahabaleshwar has many beautiful places. These are called points, one can hire private taxis to go there. These points can be covered in one day. Some of the popular points are Arthur’s Seat, Tiger’s Spring, Wilson Point, Sunset point which is also popularly known as Bombay point.

Sunset point is very popular and there is lot of rush at this spot at sunset hour. One can see the beautiful valley with greenery from most of these points. Venna lake is another famous tourist spot, one must enjoy boating here. There are three waterfalls in this region, these are Chinaman’s waterfall, Lingmala and Dhobi waterfall. To see the real beauty of these waterfalls one must visit them after the rains.

Other famous points are Kate’s Point, Lodwick Point, Elphinstone Point, Helen’s Point, Falkland Point. Some of these are named after the viceroys of India.

Old Mahabaleshwar is called Kshetra Mahabaleshwar, there is an ancient Shiva temple, which has the swayambhu shiva lingam. There is another temple nearby called Panchganga temple which is said to be the sangam of five rivers — Koyna, Savitri, Gayatri, Venna and Krishna. Many people visit this place as a part of pilgrimage.

If time and money permit, one can go to the ayurvedic spa centres here which offer different massages and treatments for tension relief and many chronic diseases.

Another hill station which is very near Mahabaleshwar is Panchgani (18 km). This place derives its name from the five hills around it. This hill station also has some beautiful points to see, like Parsi point from where one can see the Krishna valley and waters of Dhom dam, Table Land which is the second highest plateau in Asia after the Tibetan plateau. Some spacious caves are here, it is said that some of the caves were built by Pandavas during Mahabharata period. One can see the beautiful locations here used in many Bollywood movies.

Those interested in history and forts can visit the Pratapgad Fort, which is 20 km from Mahabaleshwar. This was built under the command of Shivaji Maharaj by his prime minister. This fort has the famous Bhavani mata temple, which was built by Shivaji. Buses and taxis go up only to the base of the fort, the rest has to be covered on foot.

Fall for the charm of Agra

Asian — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 03:20:47 GMT

Priyanka Saxena

Just when the sun god decided to give north India some respite from his onslaught, I decided to visit the mecca of romance and see the Taj for myself. I guess somewhere I was hoping that maybe the late Shah Jahan’s romantic act would inspire my husband into building a small home for me but alas!

Agra, located in the northern state of Uttar Pradesh, is about 200 km from Delhi and offers a plethora of travel options. While it takes less than an hour to reach Agra by air (from Delhi), travelling on the popular Shatabdi train is perhaps the most convenient, inexpensive and fascinating way to reach the destination. And thus my journey aboard the comfy Shatabdi, with hot tea and a sumptuous breakfast kickstarted my sojourn.

As we reached Agra, we proceeded to see the marvel of love and the epitome of beauty. And as the Taj unfolded in front of our eyes, its sheer beauty and grandeur took our breath away. Let’s just say, the feeling cannot be truly described and is best left for you to experience. All I can say is that the Taj Mahal, the 17th century mausoleum, resting on the banks of the river Yamuna, which stands as a reminder of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan’s intense love for his beauteous wife Mumtaz Mahal, is a must see.

Having feasted our eyes on the Taj, we headed to our next destination — the Agra Fort. Built by the Mughal emperor Akbar in 1565 A.D., this huge fort narrates tales of bravery, of its triumphs and victories over its rivals and its reigning years during the Mughal era.

Having visited history, it was now time to satiate the hunger pangs growling in our stomachs. Since Agra plays host to a large number of foreign tourists, the destination has a horde of eating options ranging from plush five-star joints to ordinary dhabas. We ate our fill of traditional Mughlai gosht at a decent outlet and went on with our Agra tour. Since we had a return ticket that very evening, we could not go to see Akbar’s tomb at Sikandra or visit the city of victory Fatehpur Sikri, which is also a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Nevertheless, we did have time to shop at the bazaar and pick the popular peetha to take with us back home. If your partner is indulgent, you can also try on the famous jutties (shoes), buy some bags, look at the bamboo saris and miniature marble Taj Mahals to carry back as souvenirs.

On our way back to Delhi, the yearning for a longer visit to this marvellous city kept me occupied and I have to admit that another trip is on my agenda sometime soon.

The writer is a travel expert

Beach bumming in bustling Bali

Asian — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 03:19:49 GMT

Manisha Koirala

I have to say, I love Europe, I love everything about it. Coming from the subcontinent, living most of my adult life in Mumbai and experiencing the tropical climate, I’d often escape to the cooler Europe. Like the West sees the exotic in everything Indian, I used to find everything about Europe alien and thus exotic.

I’d be the first one to admit, once that wears off you realise there’s more you want from your holiday destination. And being a complete water baby, and somebody who loves to sit on the beach and get a tan, beach spots get my vote. And there are none that give you more warmth than those you see in the tropical belt. I love Seychelles, Mauritius, but Bali ranks on the top of my list.

It is one of the few thousand islands that form Indonesia, and many of them have their own charm. Some of them are remote, quiet and only inhabited by locals. Bali, on the other hand is very touristy and buzzing with life. It’s quite populated and the local flavour cannot be missed even though there’s a serious influx of tourists all round the year. Bali is divided into several regions; each has its own distinct quality. Whenever I am there I hang out in Kuta, which is the busiest spot, has evening flea markets and is a good place to party too. I have tried out quite a few resorts, cottages and guest houses here. If you’d like to splurge and relax, resorts are good, but what happens with that is you somehow end up spending most of your time in the resort itself. They have their own shopping arcades and all, and just manage to imprison you inside. If you are travelling with a group of friends, cottages by the beach front work out best and economical. Santa Monica cottage is my favourite place to stay in the Northern end of Kuta. The flip side of being in a touristy place like Kuta is that you have to be constantly on guard against touts. You have to be firm and just ignore them, not look gullible and they will let you be. As much as it’s the hub of party, modern swinging lifestyle, Bali is deeply rooted in culture and religion. There are many Hindu temples, which is a treat. You can go to the eastern regions to explore these temples and several cultural activities, like the monkey dance, which attracts tourists by hordes every evening. Visit the famous Garuda Vishnu monument, it’s a beautiful site. I see a lot of Indian tourists going to Bali these days, and enjoying the cultural heritage.

But for me, Bali is mostly about beach shacks, shopping and parties. If you want to go scuba diving, Bali is the place. I got my scuba diving license here. I like hanging out at the flea markets, walking through the stalls set up by tourists, selling their wares. Eating at small joints at these flea markets is a treat. The food in general here is hot but mouth-wateringly delicious. Beach shack Havana is my favourite here and that’s where I spend my days and nights, when the music begins. The best part about Bali is you can meet people from all over the world here and you can talk to people, make friends, exchange experiences and cultures. Bring down your walls, break your defences, because Bali is the place to set yourself free and let go of your inhibitions.

As told to Chhaya S.

Spectacular Singapore

Asian — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 03:08:19 GMT

Himanshu Bhandari

Don’t worry about looking around, you just concentrate on buying things," said a worried grandma the day before I was set to leave for Singapore. Worried more for my aversion to shopping ("Doesn’t know anything, will get fleeced I tell you — he has that look") than anything else. It would appear the image of Singapore as a shopping destination is more extreme than I’d previously imagined. But there had to be more. Now was the time to tell yourself if you believe something strongly enough, it turns true.

I can’t explicitly vouch for infantile logic but it may have done the trick — a shopper’s paradise it may be, but Singapore offers so much more to see, hear, feel and above all, think about. Particularly for the lone traveller.

First up, the obvious attractions. For the adventurous types, or those with kids, Sentosa island seemed worth the hype. Back on the mainland, the Flyer is quite an addition to the skyline, offering a bird’s eye view of the no doubt impressive landscape. Much happier at ground level, I decided to wander through Orchard Street — the signature upscale boulevard that seems a prerequisite for any tourist city worth its salt these days. Suitable for visits of wonderment, but no place to settle down.

Which is hardly applicable to the rest of Singapore. Armed with a map (free, available at every other corner), I found myself using all forms of the island’s public transport — cabs, buses and the tube — within days.

So far, so good. Singapore had met most expectations, and exceeded some. But what about a less savoury aspect, a flipside, an underbelly? Not all of Singapore is the spotless, 10,000-watt-worth-of-lighting, shiny, happy paradise of all things good and duty-free. Like far-flung pockets to the north and west ("far" being a very relative term on the small island). Life here seems far removed from the main civic district; in fact it’s closer to state of affairs in neighbouring Malaysia and Indonesia.

Yet even at the heart of South-West civic district, little pockets in Chinatown and Little India have a grimier, more rooted feel. As I walked from the latter toward similarly "suburban" Ferrer Park up the road, a multitude of bylanes and backalleys threw a spanner in the works.

This wasn’t the Singapore of the brochure, but that’s what made it exciting. Few other places have South Indian, Pakistani, Malay, mainland Chinese, Taiwanese, Japanese and Vietnamese street food (and DVDs!) — often all within the space of a few blocks. Multi-culturalism is a byword for most travel marketing these days, but now on, I’d only be convinced by something akin to a Japanese massage parlour atop Shri Ghanesh Textiles.

Having said that, these aren’t areas for a 1 am stroll, so I decided to head out, eventually. But not before the "other" Singapore had revealed itself. Underbelly? As close as it comes here. Unsavoury? No way, It pays not to stick to the menu.

Special mention for Clarke Quay — now a small, tightly-packed stretch of watering holes, food joints and the odd designer ice-cream parlour — all on the banks of the Singapore River. The aromas are great, the drinks on the expensive side and the waitresses friendly. Maybe a bit too friendly… must be good for business.

In a short visit, I was satisfied in the knowledge that I’d experienced an alternative Singapore. Overwhelmingly likeable, but profound? I wasn’t yet ready for that realisation.

A final stroll along the Clark Quay promenade made it all quite clear. Devoid of the long history and tradition that instantly hands an advantage to its competitors in the world tourism battle, Singapore is in the process of doing the paradoxical — building in a sense of character. There’s a reason even-heighted, similar-girthed, assembly-line trees are nowhere to be seen. There’s a reason each of the numerous tube stations greet you with unique combinations of graffiti, glasswork and gross commercialisation. There’s a reason many of the malls look like apartments from the 1930s. There’s a reason, after downing Ireland’s finest to an old Buddy Guy tune at a trendy bar — I’m crossing a river on a bridge built in 1889.

Colours of Kolhapur

Asian — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 19:07:06 GMT

Arati Bhargava

From the aircraft window Kolhapur in south Maharashtra appeared a tiny city set amidst a lush green hilly terrain with fairytale ponds and lakes making it a picturesque fantasy. Its low-roofed small airport handling only one flight a day was reminiscent of the refreshing 60s when airports were not like railway platforms nor a maze of counters handling endless traffic.

The near 13 km drive from the airport to the city was as beautiful as it had seemed from the air. The meandering greens and distant hillocks on either side of the road, the clean crisp air of the surrounding Sahyadri ranges lend it the perfect picture postcard look. No wonder that Kolhapur that is on the banks of the river Panchganga has been one of the favourite areas for Bollywood producers.

I drive to a Heritage Hotel, the old palace of Kolhapur’s princely Shahu Maharaj family called the Shalini Palace. A majestic black stone and marble structure in the midst of rolling landscaped grounds overlooking the Rankala lake, the palace which was built in the 19th century has an old clock tower with a clock that works perfectly.

As one drives around the outskirts of the city and watches the serene waters of the lake or strolls along the green countryside dotted with shrubs and bushes, the air has a magical quality. It is no wonder that the producers of the highly popular Jai Shri Krishna programme on television chose to shoot the serial in Kolhapur’s Jaya Prabaha studio.

The city itself is a mixture of the modern and historic. While the bazaars are bustling rows of modern shops there are also several majestic period structures. Most taxis charge irrational fares — Rs 400 for just 10 km. So I settle for an autorickshaw to the city’s most famous place, the ancient Mahalaxmi temple. Flower sellers sit along the outer wall of the temple complex selling flowers of all types from the large pink, white and mauve lotus and huge marigolds to dewy crimson roses. Inside the gate ahead is a relatively simple main temple structure. I buy flowers and step inside the temple. The dimly lit interior with its damp yet cool environ is a relief from the warm sunny courtyard outside. The Goddess Mahalaxmi idol about three-and-a-half feet high and weighing 40 kg is said to be swayambhu. This means that it has not been carved by anyone but is a primeval monolith of uncut diamonds and precious stones. While the inner temple is sombre, simple and serene there are sculpted structures outside that house the temples of other deities. It is said that the Chalukya ruler Karandev started this temple in the 7th century AD and later in the 9th century AD it was beautified by the Shilahara Yadavas. The temple is a Shakti peeth and it is said that a wish made here comes true. Needless to say I promptly made a wish.

Shopping in Kolhapur is simple as there is virtually a different street for every item. The streets selling two of the city’s most famous items are a few minutes walk from the temple. The nearest being the Saraf bazaar or silver and gold jewellery market called Gujri. The traditional Kolhapuri ssaz, a beautifully crafted gold necklace is a must for local women and visitors. What is greatly popular is what is known as one gram gold jewellery, this means that the ornament is made of silver with a one gram plating of gold.

Much too tempting to linger in Gujri, I move on to the nearby Shivaji Chappal market lane where scores of shops sell a bewildering variety of the internationally famed Kolhapuri chappals. As I try out a pair the chappal seller Suryakant Namdev Doiphode tells me that his family has been in the trade for generations. The city is also famous for its red chillies called lavangi mirchi and its jaggery.

There are many historic buildings I visit. There is the old 18th century palace with its intricate filigree work and marquis on stone. It has the Bhavani temple and pujas are done there even today. The grand 19th century town hall that has a museum housing various antiques. Kolhapur’s princely family’s new palace that appears quite like their Shalini Palace set in acres of land with its own lake and a zoo is a delight. While the family resides in a section of the palace the ground floor is a museum open to the public but with a ticketed entrance. Inside the Durbar hall has been kept as it must have been by the ancestors of the present family head. There are life-size marble sculptures, priceless paintings (I spotted seven Raja Ravi Verma originals), life-size paintings of members of the royal family and a host of valuable period items.

Four days in a small city would appear more than ample. But despite its size it seems that my stay was much too short for this city seeped in history and quiet grandeur.

The writer is a travel expert

Stunning views make Khandala a special place

Asian — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 19:06:38 GMT

Suneil Shetty

With lives being so stressful and a rush for everything, it’s important to take a break to refresh your energies. I find travelling the biggest stress buster, and like to take short breaks whenever I can. It doesn’t have to be an exotic foreign destination, you can go anywhere close by for a short break. Or go for a long trip across our country; there is so much to see here itself. And travelling within India can be much cheaper than travelling abroad. So I find it difficult to pinpoint one favourite holiday destination, as most of the places I have been to are very special for different reasons. But the key to enjoy your holiday is leaving all your worries and work aside.

One of my favourite holiday spots would be my home in Khandala, not very far from Mumbai. I like going there when I feel that I need to beat the rush of the city. Khandala and Lonavala are two neighbouring hill stations, quaint little towns which have a lot to offer besides fresh, rejuvenating air and cooler climes especially in the summer. There are several points, which have become tourist attractions due to the stunning views of the neighbouring hills and the sunset especially. You can go for treks or enjoy waterfalls in their full bloom in the monsoon. I also like settling down for a coffee or a brunch on lazy Sundays at the beautifully located Fariyas here.

Goa has been another favourite holiday spot for me. If the purpose of travelling is to have a good time, Goa is the place to go to. You don’t have to go to a foreign country just for the sake of it and burn a hole in your pocket. Instead you can book yourself in one of the old Goan cottages and have a good time. That’s what I like to do when I am there. I think I have explored a lot of beaches in Goa, the bustling ones in the North to the quiet ones in the South. They all have their own charm and energy. When I am in Goa I prefer to laze around on the beach, doing nothing much, read a little, go for a swim and soak in the sun. But there’s a lot that Goa has to offer besides the beaches, the interiors too are absolutely stunning. The old Goan villas add to the character of the place, the churches in old Goa are comparable to the best in Europe in their design and history. If you like partying, there are night hotspots where you can let your hair down and dance till the wee hours of the morning. But the real party happens on the beach though, where you will meet people from across the planet coming together adding to the joie-de-vivre of the place. And the food is amazing. If you love seafood this is the place to come to. Try the local dishes in any of the shacks which offer mouth-watering food at extremely reasonable prices.

If you are a beach bum, Bali isn’t too far and has great beaches. If you don’t go during peak tourist season, you are likely to find resorts and cottages for really cheap prices. And shopping at the flea markets here is a great experience, even if you are not a shopping fan. And then of course there is New York, who doesn’t love it and Europe, with its wealth of travelling destinations.

As told to Ajay Surya

Enjoy a private beach at Honey Island

Asian — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 19:05:50 GMT

Geeta Naresh

Think of Brazil and instantly Rio De Janeiro and Amazon forest trips come to mind. However, it has lots of other exotic destinations to offer. Honey Island is one such example. It is known as Ilha Do Mel in the local language. Honey Island is a complete holiday destination with beaches, backwaters, caves, forts a lighthouse and mountains making it really exotic. It is an ecological treat and cars and other vehicles are not allowed on the island which is reached only by water. Entry to the island is limited to 500 people at once. One need not be a Hollywood celebrity to enjoy the luxury of a private island as it ensures privacy.

The journey was as fascinating as the destination itself with green mountains and long smooth roads welcoming us. We got down at the ferry station and took a boat to the island. In the background, blue mountains gave a picture perfect view to the island. The island is dotted with medium to budget hotels, but if you try a hostel, it comes cheaper. It serves yummy seafood and local Cashasha drink. If you are in a mood, then you can even cook here. One can see many small shops selling souvenirs, cafes, restaurants and other stores.

We stayed at a nice place called Zorro right on the beach. After having a fresh seafood platter, we ventured out to grotto which is on the small hill on the beach. The grotto looked like something straight out of The Chronicles of Narnia. There were also parasailing and gliding options available.

Balmy evening soon enveloped the island and soothing music filled the cafés on the beach. It was very romantic We retired after another feast of fish and prawns.

Next morning, the sky was deep blue and it was quite a sight. After the visit to the beach, we took a ferry to the other end of the island which has a post office and hospital.

It was great adventure in itself to reach the ferry station in the small speed boat as it was raining and also high tide time. Despite the fuel of food, we had no energy to check out the light house. Exhausted but thrilled to the core we went back for a good night’s sleep.

Romantic idyll

Asian — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 19:25:31 GMT

Lakshmi Govindrajan

Postcards capture the sheer essence of a locale, yet no destination lends itself better to a postcard than the gorgeous and quaint little Positano. Tucked in Italy’s glorious Amalfi coast, Positano is exactly what you would have seen at some point in time or the other representing rustic Italy on celluloid — streetside cafes, steep steps, pristine blue sea, white houses, the works.

Positano’s more famous neighbour Sorrento is often the preferred tourist destination, but that’s exactly what makes the former more attractive. Devoid of as much attention, Positano revels in its lazy pace, its vertical limit and its countless staircases. It’s often called the Vertical City due to its altitude with houses lining one side of its long-winding roads, and almost all of them offering a superb view of the Tyrrhenian Sea’s azure hues. In fact it’s as romantic a town for honeymooners as it is for photographers, artists, novelists or anyone with an eye for creativity, nature and beauty. In fact the Rolling Stones’ Mick Jagger is said to have written Midnight Rambler while holidaying there.

My husband and I drove down from Naples, needless to say it was visually the most breathtaking experience of our holiday. The two-hour drive with Mount Vesuvius in the backdrop and later a sensual coastline also did not prepare us for the surprise package Positano turned out to be. We stayed at the Villa Gabrisa which was formerly a private villa. It was built in the traditional architectural style of Positano — grand terraces covered by bougainvillea and grapevines, French doors, graceful archways and ceramic tiled floors.

If you’re hyperactive you may find the town a bit slow, but for those tired of city life, it’s the ideal holiday spot. It offers you both the beach and the altitude of the hill-station, so you can simply take your pick. It’s easy to look around the town and much of the sightseeing can be finished in a day. If you start from its highest point and move down towards the beach, make sure you have a meal by the sea. One of Positano’s most famous sites is the cathedral of St. Maria Assunta. It is characterised by the imposing majolica dome and is visible from almost every panoramic point of the town. It houses the icon of the Black Madonna, painted in the XIII century. In fact legend goes that the icon had been stolen from Byzantium by pirates and was being transported across the Mediterranean. Just then a storm in the waters opposite Positano, startled the sailors who reacting to a voice onboard saying "Posa, posa" ("Put it down!") offloaded the icon and took it to the nearby fishing village. As the storm subsided, the town got its name Positano.

Other interesting sites include the various beaches, a cave that still holds prehistoric remains and the Ponte dei Libri bridge, which crosses a beautiful valley. If you’re done visiting famous sites, make sure you sit at a cafe and watch the town go by while you sip some wine and munch on fruits. True to their Mediterranean nature, the fruits here are not just juicy but also available in the brightest of shades. If you think rustic is rural, then you’re in for a shock. You will not find it surprising to spot many a Maserati and Ferrari drive past as Positano is quite the rich man’s holiday home. This trend is seen in its exorbitant prices while shopping for clothes or accessories. Overall, a superb holiday destination which offers unmatched serenity, fantastic cuisine and picturesque scenery.