:: Kishwar Desai

Free debate and a German castle

Kishwar Desai

April.18 : One of the advantages of being married to a "mid-Atlantic intellectual", as my husband describes himself, is that one gets to travel to places we would not have normally put on the "must do" list. Yet, now having arrived in Heidelberg I have to say that it is a picturesque, beautiful, peaceful German town, and one so full of history that it feels great being here, even as a completely accidental tourist. The reason for our arrival is my husband Meghnad’s talk on Islamist terrorism, at the invitation of the South Asian Institute, Heidelberg University, run by the pleasant and mild-mannered Professor Subrata Mitra. As usual, it is astonishing to come to a well-attended lecture in which there are people from all over the globe studying Islam, Islamism as well as different Asian cultures. These are men and women of every colour under the sun, of practically every nationality, including Indian, Chinese and Pakistani — apart from Europeans, Americans and Canadians. After a stimulating interaction we go to a local pub for dinner. It is reassuring to find among us an Italian studying Chinese Muslims, as well as an American who can speak fluent Garhwali. There is a French woman of Indian origin researching "born again" Muslims in Bengaluru and another French academic who is studying conversion (to Christianity) of tribals in Nepal.

The whole global idea of identity and democracy is discussed over German food and drinks — a raucous, contentious, argumentative evening which leaves us all with a totally-satisfied physical appetite and much food for thought. As the evening progresses, I am struck by the fact that much of the debate and discussion around and about India would not actually be possible in India any more. The last few times when I was back in India, I had the uncomfortable feeling that middle-class India is turning into a closed society where you can only have one opinion if you are an "intellectual liberal". Which basically means that you can only support a particular political ideology — and your stance will make you either a foe or a friend. It is strange that in Germany we experienced an evening of free debate and exchange of ideas without being labelled "secular" or "communal". Unless academic debate in India is freed from these shackles, it will be increasingly difficult to have critical discussions.

However, Heidelberg has been very rewarding so far. After meeting a scholar of Sanskrit, who is a German, the realisation dawned that Indian history is, despite the present dangers, in very safe hands. While scholar after scholar around the table rued the fact that valuable archives in India were being lost, thanks to the interest of these global scholars it is now certain that Indians will be able to preserve their history. Not because we have enough home-grown scholars with an independent mandate and ample resources, but because history is now international and more and more academics from all over the world are studying Asia with ferocious attention. And incidentally, the most cheers came for the thought that Mayawati could possibly be India’s next Prime Minister.

All this may be surprising for those of us who still remember Germany as a racist country with all kinds of phobias. To have changed to such a large extent and to actually have large departments studying South Asia gives everyone hope. Maybe India will also change and become less exclusive about differing opinion in academia.

Heidelberg is, of course, a students’ town. Everywhere there are people on cycles with backpacks, swiftly travelling over the cobbled streets. The tall traditional baroque buildings with their wooden shutters provide a wonderful background to the numerous "squares" or open spaces with fountains and marvellous sculptures where people can enjoy balmy evening — now that summer is in the air. In fact, the ability of sitting out and having a drink with no fear of being beaten up is addictive. Not only that, the women who are cycling around say that they feel safe even at night.

All activity here is overseen by the large and imposing Heidelberg Castle which nestles on the hillside facing the town. The ruins are evocative of a fabulous past. And because most of the pubs and eating places face the castle on the marvellous Haup Strasse, or high street, you are made aware of the town’s history every moment. The castle has been compared with the Acropolis of Athens and the Palace of Versailles and some parts of it are said to be more than 700 years old. But there are well-preserved signs of history and art everywhere in this town — for example, the copy of the baroque Madonna, or the modern fountain which is in the middle of the "cold valley square" which is devoted to the Hebrew scholar, humanist and cosmographer, Sebastian Munster.

But the most important fact about Heidelberg is that it is a university town which has also been associated with the work of Goethe and Hegel, and other famous academics. Today it has a student population of over 30,000. It is one of the oldest universities in Germany — after Pope Urban VI gave Prince Elector Ruprecht I permission to establish a university in 1385, the university started the following year and has flourished ever since.

One of the unique features of Heidelberg University is also the (now defunct) student’s prison, or Karzer, which remains a great tourist attraction. For almost 200 years, till 1914, it was a prison for unruly students — some of whom served upto two weeks in prison for what would today be dismissed as normal high jinx — drunkenness or resisting authorities. For the first three days the students were kept on a ration of bread and water and afterwards were allowed more luxurious diets. The cells still carry evidence of the thoughts and self-expression of the young prisoners through their often rebellious art. Some students had cheekily named their cells "Grand Hotel" or "Sans Souci" (without a care).

Of course, no one jails youngsters for harmless transgressions anymore. Instead, this town now celebrates its students through its vibrant culture. It is a town where you feel eternally young. Walking through the high street you are astounded at the large number of gelitarias (ice-cream shops) and restaurants, all nestling cheek by jowl. May the youthful energy of this old city live forever!

The writer can be contacted at kishwardesai@yahoo.com