When the bells sing

Long plane rides are a bane. But sometimes they come with advantages. You make new friends, exchange pleasant conversations or just simply watch films. I must confess I am not very adept at watching films on a flight but at times I do. A few years on a flight back home, I watched the unforgettable French comedy success that broke all box office records — Bienvenue chez les Ch’tis. It was a delightful film of humour, humanity, tears and laughs. The nondescript town of Bergues in northern France where the film was based, became known overnight on the world map. Antoine the carillonneur in the film, plays Stevie Wonder on the carillon of the belfry of Bergues and Dani Boon as well plays the bells together with his musician- colleague. Church bells had a place of honour in this film and these scenes were endearing.

A few days back, the sun streamed down on the town of Rouen and it looked and felt like paradise on earth. Everyone seemed so happy and vibrant as the pleasant sunshine bathed the beautiful Normand city in a golden canopy. I decided to walk into the extraordinary cathedral that stands in the heart of the town, as I had done several times before, to admire once again its fathomless beauty. A true surprise awaited me within. The carillon bells of the cathedral were brought down and were on display inside the cathedral. A major renovation has been in progress since a few years and the bells were brought down for restoration and repair. They were despatched to Annecy to a family of bell specialists for care. After a year, they were brought back and placed inside the cathedral for public viewing. Here they were now, beautifully lined up within the awe-inspiring location, patiently awaiting their space up in the belfry.

Carillon music is an ancient tradition in European churches. It stood for good music, prosperity of towns and villages. Several bells played music under the expertise of the carillonneur, musician of the carillon. Proudly now owning sixty-three bells, weighing in all more than twenty-five tons, the carillon of Rouen was installed in 1920 and like all carillons, played for important feasts and events. Today it is one of the largest carillons in Europe. Badly needing restoration and restructuring, the little bells and the huge bells were redone; new bells were manufactured. In early April, the 16 new bells were blessed and baptised. A few days back, I watched the hoisting of some of these bells up onto their original place. It was a dramatic spectacle witnessed by big crowds. I heard Patrice Latour, the carillonneur of the cathedral of Rouen on the radio. He explained how he was fascinated by the bells when he saw them and which set him in that direction. Not just his passion, but the importance of the carillon in the cultural topography of France shone through his words.

Latour has been a honorary carillonneur in the recent past as the bells have been out of use since the nineties. Now that they are renovated surely the carillonneur and the town will witness some of the most winsome and fascinating tunes that herald joy, hope and enticing musical sound. The words of the archbishop of Rouen are particularly meaningful. “The return of the bells is like a resurrection. We could live without the carillon. But can we live without music, without art “Once placed in the belfry, the bells will be ready for better viewing by visitors. The revival of the carillon will open up renewed vistas for aspiring carillonneurs and will above all, breathe new life into ancient traditions of music. After 15 years, the silence of the carillon of Rouen will soon be broken and will once again inspire the urban landscape of Rouen. I was moved to have partaken of a small stage in this process, albeit accidentally.

Dr Vasumathi Badrinathan is an eminent Carnatic vocalist based in Mumbai. She can be contacted on vasu@vasumathi.net