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  Life   Fashion  25 May 2018  Fashion weds comfort

Fashion weds comfort

THE ASIAN AGE. | ANGELA PALJOR
Published : May 25, 2018, 2:18 am IST
Updated : May 25, 2018, 2:18 am IST

Anti-fit is the mood of this season’s style book as relaxed, comfortable, free flowing silhouettes rule the runways and wardrobes.

Outfit by designer Malini Ramani.
 Outfit by designer Malini Ramani.

The reinventing of the fashion industry in recent years is driven by a combination of comfort and anti-fit wear. Dresses which accentuate the shape of one’s body are giving way to  loose fit silhouettes making style synonymous with comfort. ‘Anti-fit’ dresses have been a trend for sometime but are truly gaining momentum now.

Talking about the spurt in popularity, designer Payal Jain says, “The primary cause is to accommodate the concerns of women whose bodies are changing with time. No one wants tight fits and body-hugging silhouettes all the time as they make you more conscious of your body and also tend to be less comfortable. The ‘anti-fit’ shapes give you the much-needed breather for occasions when you want to be more relaxed and at ease while making you feel comfortable with your body and shape.”

Outfit by designer Payal JainOutfit by designer Payal Jain

Women across borders are rejecting the stereotypical idea of fashion for women. “With the international acceptance of all body types and shapes along with campaigns like ‘I’m perfect,’ it is high time that we as Indians also stop chasing the size zero body type and celebrate womanhood by making each one of us feel comfortable in our own skin and confident in our flight. Hence, we designers have started creating a-structured dresses which not only feel good this summer but also help your skin breathe — they make for perfect day and night looks promoting body positivity,” shares designer Pooja Shroff, who strongly believes that to look fashionable one needs to feel confident and to feel confident you need to be comfortable and your garment needs to fit you like a sleeve and vice-versa. “Altering your body to fit a garment may last momentarily but to stay fashionable lifelong, altering the garment to your body type only seems a deemed fit,” she adds.

But these are not the sole reasons behind the growing trend of loose fits, designer Gautam Gupta feels the growing number of working women has also made a difference. “More women these days are working and they need to wear something which is comfortable and easy to move around. Also, the love for handmade and sustainable fabrics is increasing and these fabrics are not very drape-friendly and look better with straight silhouettes,” shares Gupta.

Outfits by Pooja ShroffOutfits by Pooja Shroff

Nature-friendly textiles
Every designer has his or her own aesthetics, inspirations and signature looks. And this works as a deciphering factor of what textile to use. However, Gupta is sure that many are realising the need for using nature-friendly textiles and are working towards promoting it. “I feel that at least if new designers start making their labels on the basis of nature-friendly textiles then our industry will move in a better direction. But every change takes time, so even in the textile development there is work going on to make  textile more fluid,” he adds.

Jain also feels that fluid fabrics have a better drape and are more flattering on the female form. “They are more comfortable across different seasons and lend a femininity to the female form. I personally love working with natural yarns and textiles and lean more towards fabrics that are fluid and drape beautifully,” shw shares.

“It’s the breathable fabrics that play a major role in making the outfits comfortable,” shares Shreyasi Pathak, stylist, Vajor. “It’s about the touch and feel of the fabric against your body. How absorbent, practical and fluid the fabric is. We keep on incorporating such fabrics in our collection. In fact, we did an entire summer collection with Liva whose fabrics are made of eco-friendly fibres and are known for their fluidity,”  she adds.

In clothing, textile will always be driven by shape. “If a drape is required then fluidity and weight are required. Satin was created to embody timeless style rooted in the textiles traditions of India. Our philosophy is to use fabrics and processes that are ecologically sensitive and empower the artisans,” says Deepshikha Khanna, head, apparel strategy and product development, Good Earth India.

Trends Shaping The Indian Apparel Industry
Some classic silhouettes have remained constant over the years but fashion is about constant change and evolution. Jain feels designers need to reinvent shapes and styles each season. “It allows the customers to experiment with different lengths, necklines, fits, styles and drapes — that truly is what fashion is about,” says Jain.

“The trend, a few years ago, was all about shift dresses, bodycons and bandage dresses but over the years customers have been coming and requesting for stylish drapes, butterfly sleeves and multipurpose comfort wear. As a designer, we incorporated these demands into my Autumn/Winter Collection’18 titled Bandi, by merging stylish sleeves and asymmetrical cuts, creating an array of options from maxi dresses which could also be used as comfort gowns to oversized night-out options for any age group,” says Shroff, who strongly believes that today’s youth wants to invest in good quality long-term fashion wear, something that they not only wear today but also use after a few years with the whole sneaker trend coming into vogue. “Comfort wear is re-defining today’s fashion industry. Long gone are the days of short dresses and tight waist belts, easy-breezy silhouettes with multi-layering approach accessorised with chic crossbody bags is a very stylish yet young look that we as designers suggest our young buyers to sport,” she adds.

Designer Sumona Parekh finds it amazing to see how different events in history have influenced and changed the way people have dressed throughout time. “With the economic boom in the 1950s, glamour becomes fashionable, and A-line and pencil skirts were very popular form-fitting fashions. Dresses in the decade would often feature stylish ruffles or lace accents and were usually knee-length or tea-length. Going into the late fifties and 1960s mini-dresses and maxi-length skirt outfits entered the scene. Mod styled dresses with short skirts and bold, colourful patterns became popular. As we entered the 80s, fashion evolved once more, skirts and dresses were once again longer and featured straight lines and more serious design.  In the 1990s, skirts and dresses were not as prominent and more casual looks became acceptable with hip-hop and alternative music setting the scene for fashion early in the decade. Skirts and dresses were usually short and even provocative, when the 2000s kicked off, the fashion was profoundly influenced by technology.  Fashion is often described as being a global mash-up, where trends saw the fusion of previous vintage styles, global and ethnic clothing,” says Parekh.

Outfit by designer NikashaOutfit by designer Nikasha

Summer Hues
Summer is always about keeping it light. Just like the fabric and style differs from designer to designer, so does the choice of colours. For Parekh, this summer is all about vibrant hues like red and brown to soft colours like pastel pink and lavender. “These colours are dominating clothes collections right now. We are also currently experimenting with purple, lavender, rapture rose, military green, yellow and milky white,” says Parekh.

Pop colours are also among the must-haves in your wardrobe. Shroff says, “Pop colours like purple, cobalt blue and onion pink are a big hit this season and vibrant colours can be worn for a day out with your friends and without a doubt can be carried as an office wear, while continuing the look for the party later in the night. Also, it feels good to have people around you in pop colours amidst the cliché summer light colours.”

But Gupta has his own selection of colours this summer. “For spring-summer I have used colours such as apple green, icy blue, peach, ivory and some vibrant shades such as fuchsia, emerald green and tomato red.”

Loose fits for men
Redefining the style quotient is not just limited to women, men too are opting for comfort. “Fashion dictates personality. And going with the trend and donning attires that don’t match your personality makes you lose your own identity. It’s always better to wear loose fitting rather than body-hugging clothes. That is why bespoke suit is always a better option than a readymade one as both the designer and fabric understands the body and tailors it in accordance to your comfort,” shares Saggar Mehra, creative director at Sunil Mehra.

Adding to it Prem Dewan, retail head, OSL Luxury Collections Pvt. Ltd Corneliani, feels that people often forget that fit is relative to the wearer. “There is no holy grail cut of shirt, pant or suit that will work perfectly for everyone. True style comes from wearing what’s best for you. As menswear becomes increasingly casual, a trend fuelled largely by the rise of streetwear aesthetics in high-fashion, a shift towards relaxed fit garments is gaining steam. I feel that clothes with a little more give and can actually elevate a look, and give it a level of sophistication and ease that is seldom achieved by garments that hug the body,” he says.

Like women, men too have various shades to look forward to. “Pastel and soft neutral colours work best for summers. Shades like sky blue, lighter green hues, orchid are soft and give a fresh vibe. We avoid using vivid and dark colours during summers,” shares Mehra.

Tags: fashion industry, anti-fit wear