Lakme Fashion Week: Kalamkari magic

Gaurang Shah’s designs at Lakme Fashion Week have never failed to amaze. So as the lights dimmed over the runway to signal the start of his show, expectations were high.

When Shubha Mudgal’s voice swelled over the speakers, singing a song written in Pali and Sanskrit, especially for the show, and the first models glided into formation, one realised that this would be a collection to watch out for.

Each garment, whether saree, salwaar, lehanga or ghagra choli was painted with exquisite kalamkari work. Kanjeevaram sarees in shades of olive, gold and rust orange were also draped artistically in many styles.

The models almost danced down the runway, often twirling around to show off the flair of their dress.

As the last notes of Shubha’s mellifluous tones faded out, with Gaurang himself taking to the stage, the tumultuous applause said it all.

“I came across a book on the paintings in the Ajanta Ellora caves and I thought why can’t we create these paintings using kalamkari technique,” Gaurang explained after the show, adding that it was quite difficult to find an artiste who would attempt human figures using kalamkari as a medium. The kanjeevaram had natural dyes and Gaurang also added a surprise element.

“I always use three elements in my shows, so this time I thought of what to use and I came up with badla work. So I’ve used it a lot for the borders,” he said, adding that it was a jugalbandi of different fabric traditions.