Apathy takes toll on Shiva temples in Naranag

Naranag (Kashmir): We are at Naranag, located 48-km north of Srinagar and 6 km upstream from the Sindh river. The place is noted for dense woods, wildlife, scenic meadows, lakes and mountains and is the base camp for trekking to Mount Haramukh (16,870 ft) and high altitude Gangabal Lake (11,729 ft).

Naranag is also known for a cluster of temples facing each other at a distance of about 200 metres and is one of the important archaeological sites of Jammu and Kashmir. The ancient place of worship is dedicated to Lord Shiva which is quite obvious as one of the edifices is adorned with a huge Shivalinga. So are a few carvings.  It was built by Lalitaditya Muktapida, of the Kayastha Naga Karkota dynasty in the 8th century AD. The Naga Karkotas are believed to be Hindu Kashmiri Kayasthas of the Naga sect known for their reverence of serpents.

The temples built with large granite blocks have the typical Aryan structure as was present in Aryan Kashmir. The remains were declared “protected monument of national importance” under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act, 1958, many years ago. A notice board erected within the complex warns of legal action against  those who cause damage to it. But Naranag, a combination of nature’s beauty and man’s marvel, is in a shambles today due to official apathy, particularly the neglect shown by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) which left it unattended along with more than 50 other archaeological sites across Kashmir Valley with the start of insurgency nearly three decades ago.

The ASI’s Srinagar Circle headquarters were shifted to winter capital Jammu in 1990 and have not returned to their original place since. All these years, with no renovation or repair work taking place at most of these places of historical importance, many of the sites started crumbling. Naranag has been the worst hit due to neglect. All one can see the ASI doing here is constructing a wall to protest it from possible encroachment.

Ironically, the remains of one of the structures built with rock blocks at the entrance to the complex is being used to store cement bags required for the mason work. Apparently in order to protect these from rain and snow, the concerned officials have installed a tin roof over the edifice and blocked the entry to it by fixing a wooden door. With that has waned its charm.

There is not a single signboard here which could inform the visitors about the history and architectural or archaeological importance of the place.

ASI officials claim that Naranag temples, among the 56 centrally protected monuments under its Srinagar Circle, “are being looked after well” even though from Jammu —  nearly 300 kilometres.  But visits to some of these sites belie the claim.

The Department of Archaeology was established in Jammu and Kashmir State in 1904 by Maharaja Ranbir Singh. It subsequently merged with ASI in 1958 and was named as Frontier Circle. At present, its Srinagar Circle is looking after the “maintenance and upkeep” of 59 state monuments. In 2010, a separate mini-circle was created at Leh to look after the monuments of Ladakh region. But as one can see here, nothing other than constructing the boundary wall on the east side of the complex is being done to protect the monument now left in ruins of which only faint traces have survived. It appears the pool around a brook has not been cleaned for ages.

Located on the left bank of the gushing Wangath stream, a tributary of the Sindh, Naranag is one of the hidden gems of Kashmir. Apart from being the base for trekking and voyage tours, it can be developed as an amazing holiday and heritage destination in such a fashion that no negative impact of it is left on the environment. But the tourism department of Jammu and Kashmir appears to be disinterested.