Lost cuisines from the konkan coast

Time has eroded from our memories the rich culinary heritage that once blossomed in the Konkan region, notes chef Zubin D’souza

Goa has come to represent the Konkan region far more than the sum of its counterparts; and vindaloo has come to represent Goan cooking far more than all the other dishes combined. Now you may think that this is a one-sided affair, but that is the nature of things. The beautiful state is being represented by the one dish in its arsenal that is truly foreign in nature.

Way before the first Portuguese ships were silhouetted on the horizon, this was a land that used its ingredients creatively. It is a land of Hindus; with 65 per cent of the population following the faith and vegetarianism as a part of their life, and not the meat-eating culture as it is so falsely portrayed currently.

The locals went to the forest to gather the tender bamboo shoots that were converted into lip-smacking dishes. Whilst on these gathering jaunts, it was not unusual to spot wild mushrooms that were converted into xacuti.

Since the cultivation of paddy was important, vegetables did not have as much space to flourish. Having said that, it would be unfair to surmise that vegetables were relegated to second base.

Sweet potatoes were roasted on open fires. There was always a pumpkin creeper in the backyard that was evolving into an absolutely stunning pumpkin patch. While the pumpkin itself could be roasted, boiled or tossed with spices, the flowers were dipped in a batter and then fried. The leaves and stems were used as sides meant to be served with the main meal.

Then there is the kokum tree, which yields berries that are used as a souring agent for several Goan curries. Normally, the use of this fruit is often restricted to these very areas that they grow in. It imparts a characteristic sour taste, and has had a long history associated with Indian cooking and Ayurveda. It is widely believed that the juice of the berry relieves a variety of stomach ailments and is often used as a digestif. This is the primary ingredient in the digestive drink called sol kadi. Traditionally, sol kadi is served with rice.

Bimbli or the local gherkin used to be a staple addition to curries, which have now lost their will to flourish. Gosalim or ridge gourd, which are runner beans, were available almost all year. These were an important part of the diet where they contributed necessary vitamins and dietary fibre.

Known for it sharp lemony flavour, amare or sorrel leaves, is soon disappearing off plates forever. Even dried jackfruit seeds, which were a staple and used as a meat substitute, are not as plentiful as they once were.

It’s a shame that we are losing what was once an important part of our identity. It’s about time these ingredients make a comeback on our dinner table.

—The writer is a corporate executive chef for Mars Enterprises, Mumbai

Vegetable and coconut stew/khotkhotten Ingredients 50 gm diced potatoes 50 gm diced yam 50 gm diced raw banana 200 gm cauliflower, cut into tiny florets 50 gm peas 500 gm grated coconut 15 gm black peppercorns 30 gm fresh chillies 10 gm tumeric powder 5 gm red chilli powder 15 gm crushed palm sugar 30 gm tamarind pulp 75 gm tomatoes, cut into quarters 500 ml water Salt to taste

Method Grind the grated coconut with peppercorns, chillies, turmeric powder and a bit of water to form a smooth paste. Cover this with half litre water for ten minutes and then squeeze the extract through a muslin or cheese cloth. This is the thick extract. Repeat the process all over again. This is referred to as the thin extract. In a thick-bottomed pot, simmer the vegetables, except the green peas, with the thin extract for fifteen minutes till they are tender and cooked through. Add the red chilli powder, palm sugar, tamarind pulp, thick coconut milk and salt and bring the sauce to a boil. Reduce the heat, add the green peas and simmer for five minutes to thicken the sauce so that it coats the spoon. Taste and adjust the seasonings if required. Serve hot.

Fermented rice and lentil pancakes/pole Ingredients 400 gm raw rice 50 gm split black lentils or udad dal 5 gm sugar 10 gm sugar 10 gm salt 30 ml oil

Method Wash the rice and lentils and soak it in water for four hours. Grind it to a fine paste in a food processor and leave the paste in a bowl overnight to ferment. Add sugar, salt and enough water to make the mixture a batter of pouring consistency. Mix well. Heat a non-stick pan and smear it with a bit of the oil. Drop a ladleful of the batter in the centre of the pan and swirl the pan about so that the batter spreads evenly. Cook on medium heat for a couple of minutes till the undersides turn golden and then flip over the pancake and continue to cook till both sides are evenly golden and done. Serve warm.